I don't know about everyone else but I'd like a high horsepower, light, agile, reliable, and comfortable sport tourer.. too bad nothing sold fits the bill. The aftermarket is all that can make it happen, and there is enough demand out there to get some great products that makes a street legal racebike a decent sport tourer. I generally go for function over form, it's not a fashion show out there and I need something that works, and I look for cost v benefit, so I generally look for the best bang for the buck. I ride all year round so I need durability, reliability, and obviously something that doesn't make a gorgeous bike look like crap..but works and is high quality as well.

This page is dedicated to the sport touring products and mods that work for me, take them or leave them...but I thought having them all in one place might help someone else out.

Enjoy and if you have any additions/comments, please shoot me an email and I'll be sure to update the page and give credit where credit is due.

1) Helibars. They raise the handlebars 2" taller, pull them back 1", and are only 27 1/4" width. All I can say is night and day, this mod makes a HUGE difference and allows some decent distances without too much fatigue. At a whopping $269.00 they're not cheap, but your arms and wrists will thank you. They're kinda a PITA to install and not hit your fairing, no cutting needed but it takes awhile to get them as close as you can get them to the fairing and not hit the tank. Be patient, you'll get them in the best position with patience. I did not put the banjo bolt of the master cylinder between the throttle cables, I have them under the banjo bolt and had to adjust the lever distance accordingly. It's close yet as long as I use all 5 fingers instead of 2, the front brakes work fine. The brakes suck on the '06-'07 so I may be getting braided lines for some better firmness...this is another topic which I may post later because there are some inexpensive options instead of new calipers ;)

2) Laminar Lip. I tried a double bubble and that didn't help worth crap with the wind blast...so I tried a Laminar Lip. All I can say is...amazing. I don't feel the blast at all until I hit about 80...which is just perfect for my riding. The install is basic and it comes with directions...all I'd recommend is replace the POS plastic screws with stainless ones from your local hardware store.

3) Buell Pegs. This is a huge bang for the buck mod. I paid $23.00 off Ebay for a set, the nearest competitor on this mod is $160 for a set of billet dropped pegs and complete rearsets for >$300. It's amazing how much an inch makes a difference...you gotta feel it to understand. Anyway, this mod is so good and cheap that I screwed up the first peg and buying another set to fix the left peg. These pegs need some serious grinding to fit and the hole has to be drilled out. I drilled the holes out with a 34/64 drillbit first...then started grinding. You want to just flatten out the hole sides for clearance (both sides) and because one side is angled you have to cut part of it off. I've jumped up and down on them and they seem nice and solid (atleast 2nd peg that I did perfectly).

4) Buell Traction grips. These grips outdue superbike foamies in durability and are better for vibes. They get hard in cold weather but still take care of the vibes real well.

5) A&R HID Conversion Kit. I'm not gonna lie, the single headlight on the 10R sucks. I tried PIAAS and other bulbs and nothing worked well except going HID. The difference is awesome...I hardly even need my highbeams even in the middle of nowhere. I recommend a 4300K bulb for the highest Lumens and the best improvement. The A&R Kit is flawless...great directions, high quality parts, and wiring. I went with the digital ballast to save space and am glad I did, the room on the inside of the right fairing is tight. NOTE, I just replaced my 6000K bulb with a 4300K bulb, big improvement in brightness. One thing to realize is that the replacement comes as a direct replacement bulb so you have to cut off a rubber grommet and the extra wires to run it with the relay on for motorcycle. Easy as pie to cut off and then the hookup all makes sense.

6) Corbin Seat. The base pan they use doesn't fit the bike well, in fact I had to put high density foam on the front of it to fill a large gap between the seat and the tank. Otherwise there is a gap on the back as well between the plastic and the seat. Since my bike is black you really can't see the rear gap unless you're really looking so it doesn't bug me too much. I just took the seat on a 2500 mile ride and the seat performed flawlessly. We had a 500+ day and my ass was fine...that says alot about the comfort of the seat. Besides the little cosmetic issues with it, I'd say it was worth every part of the $260 I paid for it.

Electronics, gadgets, and countermeasures

1) Voltmeter

2) Fuse Block

3) Electric grips and vest

4) Radar. The best setup for me is a Radar Screamer, radar, and obviously a suitable mount. I got a ripping deal here For $399 I got a radar screamer and a Passport 8500 X50. The screamer is the only thing that really works...you can hear it over earplugs upto supersonic speeds. The next challenge with this bike is mount location. I went with an Adjustable Windscreen Mount. Since my RAM mount had GPS duty I needed some other place to put the radar and there is no room anywhere.. hence the windshield option. This is a PITA to find the right place and I actually had to move it so I have 2 extra holes in my windshield (for what it's worth you can get stock windscreens for nothing because people always go with double bubbles). Anyway...I did finally find a good place so I can still see my dash and the radar detector if I need to fiddle with it. Radar is worth it's weight in gold ;)

5) GPS. I bought a Garmin GPSMAP 60C a few years ago because it's waterproof and was a real nice color GPS at the time. I think I saved $100 buying it on Amazon.com and it's been great in all weather conditions. The next challenge on this bike is mount location, I've had great results from RAM mounts for years and found they just made one for bikes. Check out this writeup on the mount

6) Scottoiler. This is without a doubt the best invention for a chain motorcycle...because you don't have to touch it with one installed !!!! I could not find a place to install mine on my 10 it took 3 times to finally get it right...and I'm damn glad I finally got it installed. The only additional parts I needed was a longer delivery hose. You may be able to just buy more from your local hardware store but call me lazy...I just bought more from Scottoiler.

7) Comfortable Grips. These grips speak for themselves..they last about 6 months and only cost 10 bucks. They're like a pillow under your hands...enjoy.

Performance

1) PowerCommander III USB. There are a few choices out there but with the popularity of Powercommanders and map availability I went with the PC. Since I run an Ivan's TRE, he sells PC's with his maps for his TRE's,etc. If I bought the PC at he best price without his map I would have saved $39...so a drop in setup with map made it worth it. So far I'm very happy with it, I do have some low speed lurching in cold temps (<50) and may call Ivan and ask him what I should adjust, but once the bike is fully warm it goes away. I'm glad I bought a PC though because all I have to do is drop in a new map if I change intake or exhaust or get a custom map done at a local shop.

2) TRE. There are 2 main choices, Ivan's TRE and GIPRO TRE. I went with the Ivan's because it came with the bike and have had very good results from Ivan's products. The Gipro is nice though because it's settable and has a gear indicator. Basically a TRE overrides a safety feature in many late model sportbikes so people don't wrap around trees and EPA crap. It's basically a different FI Map by gear...and these products fake out the gear to turn it off. I actually noticed a difference without one, the low speed map is jerky and real crappy at low speeds (lean map). The TRE fakes the ECU out that the bike is in neutral all the time so it gets full fuel...so yes your gas mileage does go down a tad. Most people don't buy this bike for real range and it only drops off a few miles per gallon, the benefits really outweigh the cost.

3) BMC Street filter. I hate buying stock replacement filters and BMC makes filters for Formula 1 cars, very high quality and reusable like K&N.

4) A&R Racing Baffles. This is without a doubt the cheapest exhaust option you can get for an '06-'07 ZX10R..and worth every cent. For a measly $100 you get new baffles that replace the restrictive ones in your stock cans. They sound deaper and louder...very nice. There's not much work to getting them installed and if you have most shop tools you'll be fine, you HAVE TO READ THE DIRECTIONS and don't start filing or grinding things, everything fits perfectly if done correctly. I'm probably going to get a real slipon exhaust later...but for now I'm set. Oh I also disabled my exhaust valve and bored out my cats at the same time, it makes it breath a bit better. If you want tips on the cats and exhaust valve check out zx-10r.net

This is a work in progress..more to come...