'98-'01 Givi Tubular rack install w/a round high pipe (version 2)

I've wanted hard luggage on my VFR since my '90 and virgin trip to Laguna in 2002 (virgin ride from >200 miles that is). The install would have been non eventful except I purchased a high mount Staintune from a fellow PNWVFR lister and that threw a wrench in my plans. I ruined an adapter kit for a '98-'01 to modify the install of a Wingrack2. There's nothing a vise and a hammer can't do when you're determined but the rack was much higher on the right than the left and it looked weird. I just couldn't achieve that level of cheesiness on such a beautiful bike.

I was at the point of abandoning the idea and going to a solo top rack when I received a post from Gary off the "Big" VFR list. He had a TBR C5 with a Givi tubular rack successfully installed and a few thousand miles under his belt to prove it's viability. The TBR C5 is wider than my Staintune so I was pretty sure that it would work with my pipe setup. I slightly modified his original design and had to do it twice because I stripped the majority of the bolts making sure it's tight enough ;). Here are the details:

You need to go to a GOOD hardware store to get these parts, your neighborhood Home Depot probably won't cut it. I went to my local McLendon's for their incredible selection of bolts, nuts, and everything in between.

Parts needed: 36in x 1/4" Stainless Steel threaded rod (cut it in half) , two 1/4" black rubber washers, two 1/4" SS cap nuts, 7 SS 1/4" washers,1 SS 1/4" nut ( I used a nylon embedded nut to replace 2 washers and the nut as an option), one 2 1/2in x 5/16" SS bolt, two 5/16" SS nuts ( I used a 5/16" nylon embedded nut w/a SS lock washer), one 5/16" SS washer, one 1 1/8in x 3/8" long SS threaded rod connector (it's used as a spacer), two 3/8" SS washers

1) This step might be scary but buying the Sargent Quick Release Pins will replace the Frankenbolts if you ever want to remove the rack. Drill out the Frankenbolt holes with a 9/32" drill bit to take the 1/4" rod, make sure you drill the threads all the way out. The threads are deeper than it looks so just keep drilling until you get far enough in where the tube opens up. The frame cross tube is welded all the way around for strength and you want to use that strength for your custom rack setup.

2) Take a breath because the hard part is over...the rest is just washers, spacers, and bolts. Pictures speak a thousand words for the rest of the process, I thankfully took pictures of version 1 and 2 to see which way works better for you.

Here are the before shots of the right side. As you can see the Sargent quick release pins are already installed, I predrilled before I got the rack.Yes that is a beautiful Staintune CF high mount pipe and I didn't have time to clean it for the install... ;)

3) Here you have a shot of the rod only before really digging into this. I used a Dremel with a cutting wheel as the tool of choice and found that it needed further trimming once fully installed to get the cap nuts to mount correctly.

4) This is the right side front and using the picture on the left from the inside out I used the long Givi spacer, a washer, a nut, another washer, the rack mount, and the cap nut with locktite. Picture on the right is version 2 and again from the inside out I used the long Givi spacer, a nylon embedded nut, the rack mount, a lock washer, and finally a cap nut with locktite.

5) The is the right side rear and using the picture on the left from the inside out I used 2 nuts, a washer, then the mount to the frame, the provided small Givi spacer for the rear, the 3/8" rod connector as an additional spacer to clear the pipe, a washer, and the tubular rack mount. The bolt used was the 2 1/2in x 5/16" SS bolt. The right picture is more closeup as that's the final way I did the job and again from the inside out I used a nylon bolt, a lock washer, the provided smaller Givi spacer, the rod connector which I also painted black to make it look better, a washer, then the tubular rack mount, another washer, and we used the same 5/16" bolt.

6) The final product !!!! There's approximately 1/2" clearance between the pipe and the tubular rack at their closest point. Since my pipe is Carbon Fiber there is minimal heat coming from it when fully warm so I think this spacing will suffice. For a stainless or "regular" pipe installation, you can use more washers on the front and rear mounts to achieve more clearance but be aware that the threaded rod may need to be longer and you may need a longer 5/16" bolt for the rear. Have fun !!! I'll post an update with some miles under this project's belt to see if anything needs further changes. This setup looks stronger than the included Givi hardware so I'm not too worried about it ;) Shoot me a line if you have any questions.